Camp Westfalia

Archive for Workshop – Page 3

Westfalia Pop-Up Roof Refurbishment

Westfalia RoofWestfalia Camper Roof Overview

Of all the clever German engineering features employed in the Volkswagen Westfalia Camper, the distinctive raised fiberglass roof is perhaps one of its most ingenious. Providing over eight feet of standing headroom, the poptop allows for the comfortable changing of clothes, cooking and other kitchen tasks, and reveals the two-person upper sleeping bunk. The canvas sides and screened front window of the pop-top roof aid in ventilation, and it provides a dry, safe refuge from the elements.

How to clean and waterproof your canvas tent to keep you warm, dry, and comfortable!

Many a time have we pulled into a lakeside rest stop or a wayside during a pouring rainstorm, and quickly popped the top to prepare a hot meal while the rain pelts the roof, all while staying dry and cozy—not an easy option for those touring by pop-up travel trailer or tent. After lunch, the whole thing easily retracts to rack up more road miles.

Refurbishment

If the devious previous owner of your Westy was anything like mine, your Westfalia Camper fiberglass pop-up roof is dingy, dirty, and sun-faded, with leaky seals that allow rain to get in and start rotting your canvas. Fortunately, it is a fairly simple matter to spiff it up again, and even to replace rusty hardware and frayed seals.

Depending on the general condition of your own pop-up, you may or may not need to perform the full refurbishment I outline here, so read ahead to determine whether you indeed require all the parts, tools, and other materials listed. The following procedures involving washing/waxing, spray treatments, etc. are best done out of direct sunlight, to ensure even and uniform drying.


NOTE: the condition of my Westfalia popup roof warranted only a good cleaning and polishing, followed by new seals and hardware. For a good tutorial on a full restoration & repainting, see this topic on The Samba:
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?p=6575726#6571508

Replacement Westfalia Roof Parts

Here at Camp Westfalia, we are often asked about replacement fiberglass Westfalia roofs and luggage racks.

Used Roofs

One option is to purchase a used Westy roof, and I see them come up on the Samba Classified Ads surprisingly frequently. Like a new roof, shipping costs may be prohibitive, but you may find one near your location. And even with shipping, it may still be a more cost-effective option than an expensive professional repair/rebuilding of your original roof.

1980-1991 Vanagon Westfalia roofs and roof parts may be found here.

1968-1979 Bay Window Bus Westfalia roofs and roof parts may be found here.

You can also set up a custom alert, to receive an email when someone posts a used roof for sale.

New Roofs

A kind reader, Frank from the Netherlands, has kindly provided two vendors offering reproduction Westfalia popup roofs:

Space Roof
Located in the UK, Space Roof offers a DIY kit with “the look, feel and dimensions of the original Westfalia roof, but it is easier to raise and lower as we use external gas struts and scissor hinges. Will fit any T25 produced from 1980 onwards.”
Shippable to North America and elsewhere.

https://www.spaceroofs.co.uk/roofs/t25-westy-style-elevating-roof

Reprowesty
Reprowesty in the Netherlands offers “A completely new lifting roof of very high quality.” It is unclear where they will ship, so please contact this vendor for more details.

https://reprowesty.com/hefdaken-2/

Parts

  • Complete set of Rubber Pop-Up Seals: replaces camper pop-up edge seal, luggage rack edge seal, and flat seal on leading edge of popup roof. Also available individually.
  • Stainless Steel Hardware: mounting bolts & nuts for hinged pop-up roof and luggage rack, and footman loops (tiedown cleats) for luggage rack. My original hardware was rusted and poorly repainted, so I opted to replace it entirely with stainless steel. Suitable SAE (1/4-20 x 3/4″) or metric roof mounting bolts may possibly be found at your local hardware store, while the luggage rack mounting bolts and tiedown cleats are available from VW-specific online vendors; mine came from GoWesty; optional
  • Rubber washers, 1″ (25 mm) in diameter with 1/4″ (6 mm) holes (qty: 6), for luggage rack mounting bolts; optional
  • Screen repair patch kit, or a 6×6″ (150×150 mm) sheet of aluminum or stainless steel window screen. Alternatively, screened garden hose washers (qty: 5), for protecting luggage rack drain holes; optional
  • Thick, gel-type cyanoacrylate “superglue” adhesive
  • “Westfalia” decal(s), available from online vendors, vary by year; optional

Tools

How to replace your torn or tattered window tent screen

  • As with most Vanagon repair and maintenance procedures, the Bentley and other manuals will be indispensible.
  • Household pressure/power washer will be helpful for blasting off old crud
  • Electric dual-action or orbital polisher. There is something like 1/500th of an acre of fiberglass on the Vanagon Westy pop-up roof, so power tools will help conserve elbow grease
  • Phillips & Slotted Screwdrivers
  • Assorted Combination wrenches
  • Rubber Mallet, wood block, sidecutters, and knife; for replacing rubber edge seals
  • Old credit card or hotel room key for use as a burnishing tool for applying decals
  • Assorted sandpaper


Materials

Meguiars Marine_RV Fiberglass Restoration System

  • Quick Fix Gelcoat Patch, for filling in small nicks and cracks in the fiberglass roof; optional.
  • Fiberglass Wash, Polish, and Wax: Meguiar’s Fiberglass Restoration System kit includes Boat & RV Wash, Oxidation Remover & Polish, and Pure Wax. These do a great job of cleaning and restoring the popup roof’s original luster and sealing it from future deterioration.

Now that we’ve collected all the necessary stuff, let’s get scrubbin’ …

Refurbishing the Westfalia Luggage Rack

Vanagon Westfalia Luggage Rack

    1. Referring to Page 75.8 of the Bentley Workshop Manual, carefully remove the screws holding the rear edge of the interior headliner of the passenger cab, then the four exterior bolts affixing the factory luggage rack to the vehicle. Also remove the four screws on the sides and front of the luggage rack. Be sure to keep track of all the bolts, nuts, and the rubber washers which provide a weather seal and prevent chafing of the Vanagon’s paint. If the rubber washers appear deteriorated or unduly squished, replace them. The entire luggage rack can now be lifted from the roof.

    1. If your Westy spends much of its time loafing under campground trees, you will likely discover a surprising amount of rotted leaves, pine needles, seed husks, and other detritus lurking beneath your luggage rack. I found a veritable terrarium thriving under my luggage rack, and it took a couple trips to the compost bin to get it all out. There’s a preventative solution for this which we’ll get to later, but for now give the Vanagon roof a good washing and hand-waxing to protect the paint. With any luck, this is the first and last time it will see the light of day since leaving the Westfalia workshops.

Rack3

    1. Place the luggage rack on a workbench or a pair of sawhorses for easier working. If your footman loops are badly rusted, drill out their rivets and remove them; if the rubber edge seal is deteriorated, remove it. Pressure-wash the whole works, and remove stubborn rust stains with very fine abrasive pads and Lime-Away, CLR, or similar product. Inspect for surface cracks or nicks; repair these with Gelcoat Patch.
    2. If replacing the front or side “Westfalia” decals, carefully measure or photograph the locations of the originals. Gently scrape the decals off with a putty knife or razor blade, using acetone to loosen them.
    3. If your fiberglass gelcoat is very dirty or is badly oxidized, clean it now, but do not polish or wax it yet, as your new decals will not adhere to a waxed surface. Once cleaned and de-oxidized, use alcohol or acetone to strip any residual fiberglass cleaner from the areas in which you intend to place the decals. When dry, apply the decals and burnish down with an old credit card.
      NOTE: For those concerned with authenticity, Westfalia-Werkes placed the large “Westfalia” decal on the rear of all Vanagon Westies, and evidently began putting the additional “Westfalia” decal on the front of the vans sometime during the 1985 model year. As far as I know, the small ‘prancing horse’ Westfalia decals were never used on the Vanagons, and were applied only to the pre-1980 Busses.

Vanagon Westfalia Luggage Rack Seal

    1. Follow the package directions of the Meguiar’s or similar fiberglass products to polish and wax the luggage rack, being especially careful not to damage the new decals.
    2. Install the new footman loops and carefully hammer on the new edge seal. This is not intended to be a watertight seal, but only to protect the edge of the fiberglass and prevent it from chafing the paint from the steel Vanagon roof. If your new seal has a round ‘bulb’ portion, either remove it from the edge seal or be sure to cut a couple sections of it away on the corners of the luggage rack after installing, to allow rain water to properly drain.

Vanagon-westfalia-poup-roof-seals

    1. Starting at one end, press the new seal onto the edge of the fiberglass and work your way around to the other end, tapping the seal firmly into place with a rubber mallet. Trim the excess.
      NOTE: Both the luggage rack seals and the main roof edge seals tend to shrink and shorten over the years, leaving small gaps at the ends where they abut the wide upper seal. To compensate for this, you may consider trimming both edge seals about .5″ (12 mm) too long, and distributing the slack along their lengths near the ends so that as they shrink, no gap will form.

Westfalia-Luggage-Rack-Drain-ScreenWestfalia-Luggage-Rack-Drain-Screens

    1. To prevent leaves and other debris from collecting beneath your luggage rack, you can add small screens to the five drain holes. Cut the aluminum or stainless steel window screen into sections of about 1.5 x 1.5″ (35 x 35 mm). Turn the luggage rack upside down and use sandpaper to roughen the surface immediately surrounding the underside of each drain hole, then clean with acetone or alcohol. Glue the screens over the holes with the gel superglue, being careful the glue doesn’t plug the drain holes. Use sections of waxed paper and small weights to hold the screens in place while the glue sets.
      Because the mesh on these screens is so fine, they sometimes plug-up with debris before all the water has drained out; if necessary, periodically blast them with a garden hose or gently clean them with an old toothbrush to keep the water flowing through.

Vanagon Westfalia Luggage Rack Mounts

  1. Loosely re-install the luggage rack, being sure to replace the rubber washers on the roof brackets and bolts. Wiggle the whole thing around a bit to settle it properly, then give all the bolts a final tightening. It is probably a good idea to check them again after you’ve driven 20 miles or so at highway speeds.

 


Refurbishing the Westfalia Popup Roof

  1. As on the luggage rack, if the old seals on the main popup roof are deteriorated, remove them. If the interior metal clips molded into the edge seal have lost their grip and the seal is loose, try slipping a section of it off and re-crimping the clip with pliers, then reinstall. Pressure wash the entire roof to remove old grime and mold.
  2. If the large “Westfalia” decals are in good condition and you intend to save them, be careful to avoid damaging them with the pressure washer or scrub brushes. If replacing, remove the old decals using the pressure washer or a citrus-based cleanser and a mild abrasive pad. Deoxidize the gelcoat on the entire popup roof, rinse, then replace the decal. Polish and wax the entire popup roof.
  3. Replace the rubber seals, starting with the upper leading edge seal, followed by the main popup roof edge seal.
    NOTE: See note regarding seal shrinkage Step 6 above.
  4. If your roof mounting hardware is rusted, consider replacing with stainless steel hardware. It’s perhaps best to replace only one or two bolts at a time to avoid any major alignment issues along the way. This is also a good opportunity to clean the pivot points on the two rear hinge mechanisms; clean with WD-40 and lubricate with light oil or a silicone spray lubricant. Do the same for the front latch mechanism.

Vanagon-Westfalia-sunsetPeriodically applying a fresh polish and wax will preserve the essential oils in the fiberglass gelcoat and prevent oxidation, and also help dirt and grime easily rinse off. New stainless steel hardware will avoid rust stains, and new rubber seals assure that your tent canvas will remain dry and intact. In fact, now may be a good time to wash and seal your popup canvas.

With ongoing care, your Westfalia popup will continue to serve as the proverbial roof over your head while camping and roadtripping for many years to come.

What do you think? Leave a question or comment below, and use the social links to share with friends!

Bleeding the Vanagon Clutch Hydraulic System

Related Topics:

Hydraulic Clutch System Overview
Clutch Master Cylinder Replacement
Clutch Slave Cylinder Replacement

Vacuum bleeder pumpAfter replacing any clutch hydraulic components, air will have been introduced into the system, and this will prevent proper functioning of the clutch mechanism, so it must be bled. Start by carefully topping-up the fluid reservoir in the dash with fresh fluid. Unlike the brake hydraulic system, the clutch evidently cannot be bled simply by pumping the pedal; the air bubbles will only compress and expand instead of being forced out, so Volkswagen specifies that a vacuum-pump-actuated bleeder be used. The Haynes manual states one CAN use the usual bleeding techniques, so who knows? I’m also told that one can simply leave the rear of the van raised and the bleeder screw left open overnight, allowing air bubbles to work themselves out, but I have not tried this method, and remain dubious.

I purchased a vacuum bleeder pump kit which can be used for both clutch & brake hydraulic systems, as well as testing vacuum hoses.

  1. Atop the slave cylinder is a bleeder screw, protected by the rubber dust cap. Remove the cap, loosen the screw 1/2 turn, and attach the hose of the vacuum bleeder, according to the bleeder kit’s instructions.
  2. Actuate the bleeder pump several times, until fluid begins to flow through the tubing and into the bleeding reservoir. NOTE: If the hydraulic fluid has not been changed in recent years, it will be dark or nearly black, indicating contamination by dirt and water; this is perhaps what caused your components to fail in the first place. Volkswagen (and most other auto manufacturers, for that matter) recommends brake/clutch fluid be replaced every two years, as outlined here.
  3. Continue drawing fluid until it is clear of dirt, moisture, and air bubbles, periodically pausing to check the level in the dash reservoir and adding fresh fluid if necessary. Do not allow this level to fall below the ‘MIN’ indicator, or air will again be introduced into the system, and you will have to start bleeding all over again.
    Remember, you’ve got about 10 feet of 3-4mm line to bleed, so this may take a full 12 oz. bottle or more.
  4. When satisfied all the air has been bled from the system, tighten the slave cylinder bleeder and replace the dust cap. Fire up the engine and see if you can engage/disengage the transmission. If the gears clash or refuse to engage, you probably still have air in the line; re-bleed and try again. If all seems well, drive down off the ramps and take her out on the road to run through all the gears. You may find that within a couple hundred miles of driving over the next few weeks, the gears will begin to complain. This probably means you still have some air bubbles lurking in your line, so bleed again until it works right.

Check with your local municipality regarding the proper disposal of your used brake fluid. Mine requested that I add it right to my used motor oil and recycle it all together. Others may prefer that you keep the brake fluid separate from other automotive fluids and dispose of it as a hazardous material.

Even if you have failed during this process to keep the fluid level in the reservoir topped-up, as long as you haven’t depressed the brake pedal air should not have been introduced into the braking system, so the brakes will not need to be bled. However, if the fluid is more than two years old, and since you’ve already gotten your tools dirty and probably stained your pants, now would be a good time to bleed your brakes.

What do you think? Leave a question or comment below, and use the social links to share with friends!

Vanagon Clutch Master Cylinder Replacement

Related Topics:

Hydraulic Clutch System Overview
Clutch Slave Cylinder Replacement
Bleeding the Clutch Hydraulic System

Vanagon Clutch Master & Slave CylindersBefore getting started, check out the “Vanagon Hydraulic Clutch System Overview”

  1. Start with some vigorous stretching exercises and calisthenics as taught by your junior high school Phys. Ed. coach; the clutch master cylinder in particular is very well tucked away beneath the dash and there is no comfortable way to work on it without assuming a variety of contorted postures and compromising positions.
  2. I suggest you use ramps or jackstands to raise the rear of the Vanagon. This will later encourage the inevitable air bubbles in the hydraulic line to migrate back to the slave cylinder, where they can easily be bled out. Set the parking brake and engage the transmission in reverse or first gear.
  3. Remove the shroud covering the instrument cluster, to gain access to the hydraulic fluid reservoir. Also remove the lower steering-column cover by removing the two screws and carefully working it loose.
  4. Vanagon Clutch Pedal

  5. Lay down your plastic sheeting and tape it snugly around the base of the steering column. Hydraulic fluid will infiltrate carpeting and dissolve paint, so do all you can to prevent it getting on painted bodywork. Use cold water or rubbing alcohol to clean any spills.
  6. The hydraulic reservoir contains several ounces of fluid, and if you simply disconnect the braided rubber supply hose leading to the clutch master cylinder, about half of this fluid will drain out and onto the floor, so have a catch can ready. Or either use a turkey baster to remove enough fluid so that the level falls below the supply hose outlet, or use hose-clamping tool to gently pinch off the supply hose. Then carefully wriggle the hose loose from its plastic nipple on the master cylinder.
  7. From your new or old slave cylinder, borrow the rubber dust cap for the bleeder screw and keep it handy. Begin loosening the pressure fitting on the metal high-pressure line exiting the back of the master cylinder, then remove the two retaining bolts which hold the master cylinder to its bracket.
  8. Vanagon Clutch Master Cylinder

  9. Completely remove the metal line from the master cylinder. To prevent several ounces of hydraulic fluid from dribbling onto the floor, temporarily slip that rubber dust cap over the end of the line. By pinching off the rubber supply hose, and plugging the end of the metal line, you should have no more than a tablespoonful or so of hydraulic fluid to clean up. NOTE: Vanagons built prior to 1987 utilize a union-nut pressure fitting for this application, while later models use a bolt-through banjo fitting with two copper washers. If yours uses the latter style, be sure to replace these washers when re-installing.
  10. Carefully lower the master cylinder from its place, being mindful of the pedal-actuated rod which will slip from the rubber boot atop the master cylinder.
  11. Installation of your shiny new master cylinder is pretty much the reverse of removal, starting by carefully slipping the actuator rod into the master cylinder’s rubber boot. After removing the rubber dust cap from the end of the metal line, you may find it easier to start threading the high-pressure union into the master cylinder if you do so before mounting the master cylinder. Tighten the master cylinder’s mounting bolts to 18 ft./lbs, and the high-pressure line fitting to 12 ft./lbs..

Once everything is satisfactorily reconnected, you can either proceed to “Vanagon Clutch Slave Cylinder Replacement” or, if not doing so, skip ahead to Bleeding the Vanagon Clutch Hydraulic System.

What do you think? Leave a question or comment below, and use the social links to share with friends!

Vanagon Hydraulic Clutch System Overview

Related Topics:

Clutch Master Cylinder Replacement
Clutch Slave Cylinder Replacement
Bleeding the Clutch Hydraulic System

The Vanagon’s hydraulic clutch system is fairly straightforward and clearly depicted in the Bentley manual, Page 30.2.

Vanagon Clutch and Brake ReservoirEssentially, the clutch pedal actuates a hydraulic piston-and-cylinder assembly—usually referred to as the “master cylinder”—tucked away just above the base of the steering column. This master cylinder pushes hydraulic fluid through a 10-foot-long pipe running to the engine compartment, where it is connected to a similar piston-and-cylinder assembly known as the “slave cylinder”. This slave cylinder in turn actuates a lever on the side of the clutch bellhousing to engage & disengage the clutch.

Hydraulic fluid for the entire system is supplied by the same reservoir as supplies the brake system; this reservoir is hidden behind the instrument cluster on the dash, and is accessed by removing the instrument-cluster cover.

Vanagon Clutch Fluid LeakTypically, the first sign of trouble in the clutch system is hydraulic fluid dripping from the master cylinder onto your shoe, carpet, steering column, etc.. Or perhaps a leak surrounding the slave cylinder back in the engine compartment, accompanied by an increasing consumption of fluid.

Failure of either will cause the inability to use the clutch to disengage the transmission, making it difficult or impossible to shift. Insistent pumping of the clutch pedal will result only in the loss of your precious brake/clutch fluid.

Popular Vanagon lore suggests that failure and replacement of either the clutch master or slave cylinder will soon be followed by failure of the other, the theory being that the original cylinders wear out at about the same rate—neither being stronger than the other—so they continue to function together for quite some time. But a new, strong master cylinder will easily overpower the worn seals in a tired old slave cylinder, subsequently blowing it out. On a purely speculative note, I suppose the opposite could be equally true: a new slave could be too much for an old master to handle, causing an imminent failure of the master cylinder.

Some dispute this as mere Teutonic superstition, and I don’t know for certain.

If your Vanagon racks up most of her miles on roadtrips and camping forays, then by definition any mechanical failures will occur far from home. If you prefer to perform this task in the relative comfort of your own driveway rather than a lonely interstate or a distant logging trail in the woods, just replace both cylinders at the same time and be done with it for a good long while.

Parts

  • Suitable Clutch Master Cylinder
  • Suitable Clutch Slave Cylinder
  • DOT-4 Brake Fluid, about a quart

Tools

  • Assorted Metric Combination Wrenches
  • Assorted Metric Sockets and Ratchet Wrench, with extensions
  • Torque Wrench: 0 to 25 ft./lbs
  • Phillips Screwdriver
  • Vaccuum-pump brake-bleeding kit
  • 3-foot-square piece of plastic sheeting and some ever-helpful duct tape: lay this down on your carpeting to catch the inevitable spills
  • A small inspection mirror and flashlight may help in seeing what you’re doing in the tight confines above the steering column
  • Penetrating oil: squirt some PB Blaster, Marvel Mystery Oil, or similar on exterior nuts, bolts, and bleeder screws a few days before tackling this job, to ease their subsequent removal. Even so, I needed to resort to the judicious application of a …
  • Small propane torch, to carefully heat stubborn threaded fasteners.
  • Hose clamping tool to prevent fluid loss.

DIY Hydraulic Hose Clamping ToolHere’s a simple homemade alternative to a store-bought hose-clamping tool. Cut a 1″-long section from a 3/8″- or 1/2″-diameter wooden dowel, then split it down the middle to form two half-round pieces. Tape these to the jaws of your locking pliers and use this to carefully pinch off rubber hoses while you work on related components. Not too hard though, or you’ll damage the rubber.

Proceed to “Vanagon Clutch Master Cylinder Replacement”

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Using a Vanagon Engine Heater

WestySnowHere in the Great White North, we know a thing or two about operating cars in cold weather.

In fact, my Wisconsin hometown (just one or two tankfuls from Canada) suffers January average temperatures several degrees colder than that of Hannover, Germany, birthplace of our beloved VW Vanagons.

As a child, riding in a car with air conditioning was a novelty for me, but every kid recognized the black electrical plug of an engine block heater dangling from the front grill of most cars around here.

An engine heater is an electrical accessory installed in an engine, with a heating element intended to pre-heat the engine before starting in very cold weather.

All engines have difficulty starting when very cold, as lubricating oils are thick and viscous, and tolerances between parts are tight. Cold starts are hard on engines, causing extra wear on poorly lubricated parts and stressing seals and gaskets.

Diesel engines in particular, with their much higher compression ratios, can be notoriously difficult or impossible to start in cold temperatures, and can suffer significant internal wear and damage. Diesel trucks and other equipment working on the Trans-Alaska Pipeline of the far north are often left to run 24/7 in the winter months, rather than risk the difficulty and damage that can result from re-starting in extremely cold conditions.

Additionally, besides easier starting and greater longevity, pre-heating an engine means you’ll have heated cabin air much sooner; nice on a cold winter’s morn. So, all engines can benefit from any means to pre-heat them before starting in very cold weather.

There are four primary types of engine heaters that run on standard 120-volt AC power, and contain a 250-600-watt heating element. Some are better suited for your Vanagon engine than others:

Block Heaters

Block heater installed in VW diesel engine

Block heater installed in VW diesel engine

These typically install directly into a port in the engine block itself, usually replacing a core plug (sometimes erroneously called a freeze plug, or frost plug). Core openings are left in the engine block during the sand-casting manufacturing process, usually opening to the internal water jackets; plugs are installed at the factory. Such a plug can be removed from the block and replaced with a heating-element block heater (see instructions below), to pre-heat the coolant for a few hours prior to cold-weather starts.
VW inline-four engines, including the diesels, work best with such block heaters.

Get it here!

Inline Coolant Heaters

Inline hose coolant heater

Inline hose coolant heater

The waterboxer engines most commonly found in Vanagons lack core plugs, so require a heater which can be installed in a coolant hose. Essentially, a short section of coolant hose is removed and the heater installed in its place. Ideally, the heater is located low to facilitate upward convection of heated coolant, while cold coolant flows downward to be heated.

Get it here!

dipstick-heaterThese temporarily replace the engine oil dipstick with a long heating element to pre-heat the oil where it rests in the pan. They are, of course, removed before starting the vehicle. I have no experience with this type, and have heard reports of early failures.

Other Options

Lacking such heaters, an engine can also be pre-heated by placing a halogen work light beneath the oil pan or engine block for a few hours before starting, or even a high-wattage incandescent lamp. In a pinch, a campstove or a can of Sterno fuel can be carefully burned beneath an engine to warm it. These methods will be helped by tucking a blanket over the engine to retain any heat while warming.

Installation of a Block Heater

For the diesel engine used in some VW Vanagons, or if another inline gasoline engine (Jetta, etc.) has been installed, the best choice is a core-plug block heater. For the most uniform heating, the heater should be installed in the center core opening. This job is perhaps best done in conjunction with a bi-annual coolant change, since it requires draining and replacement of the coolant.

  1. Start by disconnecting a lower coolant line to drain the cooling system.
  2. remove freeze plug

  3. Clean the area around the core plugs, located on the side of the engine block, just below the exhaust manifold. Use a hammer and a narrow chisel or an old screwdriver (not a good one, for heaven’s sake) to punch a slot into one of the core plugs, then pry the plug out of the block.
  4. Alternatively, I’ve seen the core plugs removed from other makes of engines by simply using a hammer and a blunt drift. As shown in this video, a hearty whack is applied to the outer edge of the plug to pivot it within the opening, then the plug is grasped with a large pliers and pulled out. Be careful to avoid knocking the plug clear into the water jacket. On my 1Y (and probably the AAZ) 1.9-liter VW diesels, there is a small internal lip running across the back of the core openings, located at the bottom of the opening, perhaps to prevent exactly this problem. So, be sure to knock the TOP of the plug in order to pivot it, should you attempt this method. Once the plug is removed from the block, clean the edges of the opening.
  5. insert-engine block heater

  6. Remove the power supply cord from the heating element and apply a bit of silicone grease to the O-ring seal. Fit the heating element into the opening, ensuring that the bottom ‘loop’ of the copper element is oriented downward, toward the bottom of the engine block. Begin tightening the center screw in the element to expand the wings on the internal “butterfly” retainer, occasionally wiggling the entire element to ensure that it’s properly seated in the opening. Continue tightening until snug, but avoid overtightening or stripping the screw.
  7. install engine block heater

  8. Connect the power supply cord to the heating element and carefully route the cord along the vehicle chassis or engine-carrier bars to a spot convenient for connecting an external extension cord to the plug end. One handy spot is just inside the rear license-plate access door. Securely fasten the supply cord along its length with cable ties, being careful not to allow the cord to entangle on any moving engine or suspension components.
  9. Reconnect the coolant hoses and refill and bleed the cooling system as usual. Look for coolant leaks around the newly-installed block heater.

NOTE: the wise Westy traveler will carry a spare block heater or spare standard core (freeze) plug on the road, in case of the urgent need to replace a lost or leaking block heater.

Using a Block Heater

Depending on the condition of your engine, and its cold-starting abilities, you may want to use a block heater before starting at any temperatures below freezing. It can take 3-4 hours to thoroughly pre-heat a 300-400-lb cast iron engine block in cold weather, so I suggest you connect the heater to a breaker-protected power supply through a programmable timer, capable of handling the 250-600-watt draw. In this way, the heater will start pre-heating your engine a few hours in advance, and will be ready when you are.

What do you think? Leave a question or comment below, and use the social links to share with friends!

Cabinet Lid Support

The Westfalia center kitchen cabinet with the two top-entry compartments is convenient for storing canned and packaged foods and other groceries. Our only complaint was that these lids refused to stay open while we rummaged around inside for the cowboy beans or a tiny tin of sardines in mustard sauce.

Vanagon-Westfalia-kitchen-lid-supportThe solution, fortunately, lay at the opposite end of the main kitchen galley cabinet, beneath the lid. The wizards of Westfalia-Werke saw fit to install a convenient cabinet lid support here, but neglected to include something similar for the smaller cabinet lids. No worries, for a handy Westy owner can easily install such a folding support there, perhaps even two!

Just as in the kitchen galley cabinet, folding lid supports (also sometimes called ‘support hinges’) mount out of sight beneath the lid of a cabinet, chest, or enclosed desk. Once opened and raised, the support holds the lid in a locked and upright position during use for easy rummaging, then is unlocked and folded down for storage.

For installation in the Westy center cabinet lids, you’ll want a support hinge about 8-10″ in length, and either left- or right-hand-mounted, depending on preference. They are often available in a variety of finishes: brass, chrome, painted, etc..

Vanagon-Westfalia-cabinet-support-hingeVanagon-Westfalia-cabinet-support-hinge2Follow the directions included with the supports to determine the proper locations of the mounting screws in the two ends. Like me, you may have to add a small wooden block or plate to make a suitable mounting spot for the lower end. I also added a small tab to this block to which I adhered a block of foam, to prevent a persistent rattling when the lid is closed.

Also depending on your personal preference, such supports can be mounted so that when folded, the knee joint folds either toward or away from you.

With only a few minutes work, you can make your own Westy kitchen all that much easier to enjoy!

Cabinet Lid Supports available here:
Lid Support Hinge 10″ Left
Lid Support Hinge 10″ Right

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