Camp Westfalia

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Using the Vanagon Westfalia Refrigerator

The Vanagon Westfalia Camper refrigerator is convenient and efficient; here’s how to use it.

No camper-van kitchen is complete without the ability to keep your food cold to preserve it and prevent spoilage. And the value of a cold beer or soft drink at the end of a long hot day of road tripping requires no explanation …

Full operating instructions excerpted from the “Supplement to Volkswagen Vanagon Owner’s Manual” for the 1983 Camper can be found here >>

Introduction

The Vanagon Westy Dometic RM182 refrigerator is located in the lower kitchen cabinet, immediately below the stove. At 1.5 cubic feet (45 liters) of interior volume, it’s a little smaller than a dorm-room mini-fridge, so smart packing is required.

Generally speaking, when the original Dometic is in good working order, it is capable of keeping food about 40-50 degrees Fahrenheit (or 20-25 degrees Celsius) below ambient air temperature. It will struggle to keep food at safe temperatures when temps inside the van exceed 90-100˚F (32-38˚C).

The refrigerator interior features two moveable shelves, and two additional compartments on the inside of the door for small food items, bottles, or cans.

In the upper-rear of the fridge interior is the evaporator core, or cooling element. When ice occasionally forms on this evaporator, turn the fridge off to defrost and allow the ice to melt.

Power

The Westy refrigerator is operated by one of three power sources:

120-volt AC electrical power (household or shore power)

To use this, connect an extension cord from a nearby power outlet to the van’s external power inlet on the side panel near the other utility hookups. The fridge is very effective when powered this way, keeping food quite cold.

12-volt DC (alternator or auxiliary battery)

In stock form, Westfalia Campers were equipped with a relay to allow the fridge to be powered by the alternator whenever the engine is running. It automatically cuts all power to the fridge when the engine is stopped, to prevent draining the starting battery.

Some owners add a second, auxiliary battery to their van and wire it through a relay or other circuits in order to power the fridge via 12V for longer periods.

Liquid Propane (LP)

The fridge can also be fueled by the same external LP tank as the Westfalia stove. Just after the main shutoff valve and two-stage LP regulator attached to the tank, the supply splits into two copper lines: one feeds the stove, and the other the fridge.

The fridge is also very efficient when powered this way, with a full LP tank supplying the fridge 24/7 for at least a full month before requiring a refill.

See below for more info on starting and operating the fridge on LP.

Effectiveness

As for temperatures, the Dometic fridge will attain its coldest temps when powered by (in order):

  1. 120-volt AC
  2. Liquid Propane
  3. 12-volt DC

Controls & Operation

The Dometic controls are located inside the fridge door, just above the main compartment.

Full operating instructions excerpted from the “Supplement to Volkswagen Vanagon Owner’s Manual” for the 1983 Camper can be found here >>

The Fridge Routine

As outlined in “The Routine,” here’s a brief synopsis of running your fridge during a typical trip:

Pre-Trip Preparation, often the day prior to departure

  • Ensure that LP (liquid propane) tank is sufficiently full, and that main shutoff valve on tank is closed
  • Pre-chill refrigerator overnight on 120V AC shore power; add cold beverages to provide thermal mass

Hitting the Road, the day of departure

  • Load any remaining cold food into pre-chilled refrigerator
  • Disconnect refrigerator from 120V AC shore power, switch to 12V DC, or open main LP valve and light for driving

Arrive in camp:

  • Park van using parking brake and, if necessary, RV levelers
  • Open main shutoff valve on LP tank to operate refrigerator on liquid propane, switch refrigerator control to LP, and light
  • If 120V AC power is available, you can optionally power the fridge with this; use extension cord to connect campsite shore power station to camper hookup; switch refrigerator to 120V AC

Breaking camp

  • Disconnect 120V AC shore power and water hookups
  • Close main shutoff valve on LP tank, switch refrigerator to 12V DC or LP for driving

Post-Trip Cleanup

  • Turn refrigerator off; remove remaining food and wipe clean

Tips & Tricks

In addition, here are some insights gained from many years of operating these compact, convenient, efficient, but sometimes fretful fridges.

Pre-Chill on 120VAC Shore Power

The Dometic fridge does well at maintaining cool temps, but benefits from a head start. A few hours before using your fridge, plug it into shore power to pre-chill it. The thermal mass of a cold six-pack inside will further aid pre-chilling, and help make the fridge easier to light on LP later.

Pack it Cold

When loading foodstuffs in the fridge, try to use pre-chilled food whenever possible, so the fridge needn’t struggle to get/stay cold.

Check It Out

As mentioned in the Owner’s Manual instructions, the Flame Indicator Light will tell you the fridge’s LP chamber is still burning. But you can also easily confirm the fridge’s continued operation from outside the van by feeling the exterior vent with your hand: a bit of warmth here indicates the fridge’s LP chamber is still burning.

Just Chillin’

A small clip-on RV fridge thermometer lets you monitor your fridge’s interior temps; a simple analog model requires you open the fridge door to have a peek (losing some of your precious cold air), while a wireless version works remotely.

Stay on the Level

When parked, the Dometic fridge must always be kept somewhat level; the Owner’s Manual specifies no more than +/- 8 degrees on incline, to prevent overheating and permanent damage to the heating element. A set of RV levelers and level indicators will help you find a suitable parking spot.

Made in the Shade

To help the fridge keep your cucumbers cool, choose a parking spot or camp site out of direct sunlight, and if possible open a couple of windows an inch or so to keep the van interior cooler.

Periodic Maintenance

Though usually very trouble-free, the Westfalia’s Dometic fridge may sometimes be difficult to light, or fail to keep your food cold. Here are some ideas to try before removing the fridge for DIY service.

Photo: Shooftie

Suck It Up

The fridge’s exterior vent houses two conduits: air intake and exhaust vent. These can become plugged with debris which can make its way down to the burner chamber: leaves and seeds, dead bugs, spider webs, etc.. Remove the outer vent cover to expose the two conduits, and alternately apply the end of a shop vac to each one to clean out any accumulated junk.

Clear the Air

Igniting the LP burner requires a bit of fresh air in the burn chamber, usually provided by the tiny pump built into the ignitor knob. But over time this pump can begin to fail, making ignition difficult. If you’re having problems, remove the cap from the small condensation drain pipe below the fridge and attach a bicycle pump. Give it several strokes of fresh air, and try igniting the fridge again.

Hope this helps you enjoy your own Westfalia Dometic fridge. And if you have any fridge questions or suggestions, post ’em up below!

Replace the Vanagon Cigarette Lighter with a USB Port

Update your loose lighter socket (and optional DIN socket) with modern 12-volt power and USB ports

Many early-1980s Vanagon dashboard cigarette lighter sockets are slightly larger than North American plugs, making for a sloppy fit when using modern 12-volt phone chargers, lights, dashboard fans and other accessories.

In addition, some Vanagons are also equipped with a DIN receptacle, a small enigmatic electrical ‘silver socket’ similarly mounted to the dashboard near the glovebox, and commonly used in Europe for 12-volt accessories. Sadly, accessories which can utilize this DIN plug are nearly impossible to find in North America, so the socket typically goes unused here.

Fortunately, both these power sockets can be rather easily updated with better fitting and more useful modern sockets; I opted for one standard cigarette-lighter socket, plus a modern dual-USB port for charging digital devices. Both sockets are close enough to the glovebox that charging cords can easily be routed to your electronic toys even when safely tucked away inside the glovebox.

We’ll start by removing the original sockets, enlarging the mounting holes in the dashboard, adding new connectors to the existing wiring, then finish by mounting the new sockets.

PARTS & MATERIALS

TOOLS

  • flat-bladed screwdriver, very small
  • electrical wire cutter/stripper/crimper

Optional Tools:

Such power sockets can see heavy usage in a Camper, requiring extra durability, so I selected a matched pair of heavy-duty marine outlets designed for use in boats. These outlets included optional heavy-duty mounting plates and snap-in water-resistant rubber covers, both of which I found to be unnecessary.

Step 1: Remove old cigarette lighter socket

As always, when working on a vehicle’s electrical system, disconnect the battery to prevent shorts and shocks. If your Vanagon is equipped with a second (auxiliary) battery, disconnect this, too.

It will be helpful to completely remove the glovebox from the van, so empty it out and unclip the two plastic retaining straps located in the front corners; pivot the glovebox completely downward until it can be disengaged from the hinge bracket and removed.


Reach up beneath the dashboard and wriggle loose the plastic wiring connector from the back of the cigarette-lighter socket.

To remove the original cigarette lighter from the dashboard, insert a very small screwdriver into the socket and carefully pry loose the two metal tabs locking the metal inner portion of the socket to the plastic outer surround. The metal socket must be removed first, allowing the plastic ring to follow.

Step 2: Enlarge mounting hole

Try fitting the new cigarette-lighter socket into the mounting hole; if it fits, you’re good to proceed. Mine was too large so I needed to enlarge the hole in my dash using a small handheld Dremel motor tool and a grinding bit. I recommend covering the seats and floor with plastic sheeting to catch the inevitable metal chips while grinding or drilling.

Step 3: Connect wires to new power socket

Fish the wiring connector out through the mounting hole and carefully cut the connector from the wires.

Depending on the model year of your Vanagon, you may have a variety of wiring configurations; in general, there should be two Brown ground wires, one or two Red Positive wires, and possibly a Blue wire for the optional green illuminated surround.

When rewiring the new cigarette-lighter socket, keep the Brown ground wires together, and utilize the same Red wire(s) for the power supply. If your new socket includes an illumination feature, utilize the Blue wire for this; if not, be sure to securely cap off this wire with a wire nut or electrical tape.

Strip the wire ends, insert them in their respective fully-insulated female spade connectors, and crimp securely.

Step 4: Mount new power socket

Prepare to mount the new socket by reaching within the dash and slipping the locking retaining ring over all the power wires.

Draw the wires back out through the mounting hole and connect all the wires to their respective spade terminals on the back of the new socket: Red to (+) Positive, Brown grounds to (-) Negative, and Blue to optional illumination terminal.

Insert the new socket into the mounting hole, be sure it is oriented straight, then thread the retaining ring onto the back of the socket from behind the dash; tighten securely.

If only replacing the cigarette-lighter socket, reconnect the vehicle batteries and test the new power socket.

Your van may also have an unused European DIN socket, or you may simply wish to install an additional power or USB socket; leave the batteries disconnected and continue below:

Step 5: Replace DIN power socket

The European DIN socket utilizes its own independent power supply, but replacing it is nearly identical to the cigarette-lighter socket above except for a few notable differences:

a. The DIN socket is mounted to the dash using a retaining nut which must be removed using a 22mm deep socket from behind the dash
b. The DIN socket’s mounting hole is only about .75″ (19mm), so you’ll need to enlarge the mounting hole quite a bit to fit a new socket.
c. Originally, the DIN socket is grounded via the metal dash structure, so you will find only a single (+) Positive power supply wire. When replacing it with a new power socket, I suggest improving this by running a dedicated ground wire to one of the crown-shaped grounding points mounted to the vehicle chassis, located behind the dash near the driver’s left knee.

As mentioned above, this space can accept a second conventional cigarette-lighter socket, or a modern USB port; I chose a slick double-USB port for maximum charging capabilities.


I used a step bit designed for neatly drilling large holes in sheet metal, which worked quite well. First, measure the outside diameter of the shank of your new USB socket (in my case, approx. 1.125″ or 29-30mm), then find the corresponding ‘step’ on the drill bit. Wrap a section of tape around the bit to mark the proper depth to avoid drilling too deep/wide. When done drilling, smooth the hole edges using the Dremel grinding bit or emery cloth.

Install the second new socket as outlined above, utilizing the original wiring, then reconnect the vehicle batteries and test the new power sockets.


After a few camping trips with our new power sockets, we couldn’t be happier. Cigarette-lighter-type power plugs now remain firmly connected and no longer rattle loose, and the double USB power socket keeps all our electronic devices powered up while travelling.

This simple, affordable project is an easy way to modernize the ill-fitting or outdated power sockets of your classic Vanagon!

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