The Vanagon Westfalia Camper refrigerator is convenient and efficient; hereโs how to use it.
No camper-van kitchen is complete without the ability to keep your food cold to preserve it and prevent spoilage. And the value of a cold beer or soft drink at the end of a long hot day of road tripping requires no explanation โฆ
Introduction
The Vanagon Westy Dometic RM182 refrigerator is located in the lower kitchen cabinet, immediately below the stove. At 1.5 cubic feet (45 liters) of interior volume, itโs a little smaller than a dorm-room mini-fridge, so smart packing is required.
Generally speaking, when the original Dometic is in good working order, it is capable of keeping food about 40-50 degrees Fahrenheit (or 20-25 degrees Celsius) below ambient air temperature. It will struggle to keep food at safe temperatures when temps inside the van exceed 90-100หF (32-38หC).
The refrigerator interior features two moveable shelves, and two additional compartments on the inside of the door for small food items, bottles, or cans.
In the upper-rear of the fridge interior is the evaporator core, or cooling element. When ice occasionally forms on this evaporator, turn the fridge off to defrost and allow the ice to melt.
Power
The Westy refrigerator is operated by one of three power sources:
120-volt AC electrical power (household or shore power)
To use this, connect an extension cord from a nearby power outlet to the vanโs external power inlet on the side panel near the other utility hookups. The fridge is very effective when powered this way, keeping food quite cold.
12-volt DC (alternator or auxiliary battery)
In stock form, Westfalia Campers were equipped with a relay to allow the fridge to be powered by the alternator whenever the engine is running. It automatically cuts all power to the fridge when the engine is stopped, to prevent draining the starting battery.
Some owners add a second, auxiliary battery to their van and wire it through a relay or other circuits in order to power the fridge via 12V for longer periods.
Liquid Propane (LP)
The fridge can also be fueled by the same external LP tank as the Westfalia stove. Just after the main shutoff valve and two-stage LP regulator attached to the tank, the supply splits into two copper lines: one feeds the stove, and the other the fridge.
The fridge is also very efficient when powered this way, with a full LP tank supplying the fridge 24/7 for at least a full month before requiring a refill.
See below for more info on starting and operating the fridge on LP.
Effectiveness
As for temperatures, the Dometic fridge will attain its coldest temps when powered by (in order):
- 120-volt AC
- Liquid Propane
- 12-volt DC
Controls & Operation
The Dometic controls are located inside the fridge door, just above the main compartment.
The Fridge Routine
As outlined in “The Routine,” here’s a brief synopsis of running your fridge during a typical trip:
Pre-Trip Preparation, often the day prior to departure
- Ensure that LP (liquid propane) tank is sufficiently full, and that main shutoff valve on tank is closed
- Pre-chill refrigerator overnight on 120V AC shore power; add cold beverages to provide thermal mass
Hitting the Road, the day of departure
- Load any remaining cold food into pre-chilled refrigerator
- Disconnect refrigerator from 120V AC shore power, switch to 12V DC, or open main LP valve and light for driving
Arrive in camp:
- Park van using parking brake and, if necessary, RV levelers
- Open main shutoff valve on LP tank to operate refrigerator on liquid propane, switch refrigerator control to LP, and light
- If 120V AC power is available, you can optionally power the fridge with this; use extension cord to connect campsite shore power station to camper hookup; switch refrigerator to 120V AC
Breaking camp
- Disconnect 120V AC shore power and water hookups
- Close main shutoff valve on LP tank, switch refrigerator to 12V DC or LP for driving
Post-Trip Cleanup
- Turn refrigerator off; remove remaining food and wipe clean
Tips & Tricks
In addition, here are some insights gained from many years of operating these compact, convenient, efficient, but sometimes fretful fridges.
Pre-Chill on 120VAC Shore Power
The Dometic fridge does well at maintaining cool temps, but benefits from a head start. A few hours before using your fridge, plug it into shore power to pre-chill it. The thermal mass of a cold six-pack inside will further aid pre-chilling, and help make the fridge easier to light on LP later.
Pack it Cold
When loading foodstuffs in the fridge, try to use pre-chilled food whenever possible, so the fridge needn’t struggle to get/stay cold.
Check It Out
As mentioned in the Owner’s Manual instructions, the Flame Indicator Light will tell you the fridge’s LP chamber is still burning. But you can also easily confirm the fridge’s continued operation from outside the van by feeling the exterior vent with your hand: a bit of warmth here indicates the fridge’s LP chamber is still burning.
Just Chillin’
A small clip-on RV fridge thermometer lets you monitor your fridge’s interior temps; a simple analog model requires you open the fridge door to have a peek (losing some of your precious cold air), while a wireless version works remotely.
Stay on the Level
When parked, the Dometic fridge must always be kept somewhat level; the Owner’s Manual specifies no more than +/- 8 degrees on incline, to prevent overheating and permanent damage to the heating element. A set of RV levelers and level indicators will help you find a suitable parking spot.
Made in the Shade
To help the fridge keep your cucumbers cool, choose a parking spot or camp site out of direct sunlight, and if possible open a couple of windows an inch or so to keep the van interior cooler.
Periodic Maintenance
Though usually very trouble-free, the Westfalia’s Dometic fridge may sometimes be difficult to light, or fail to keep your food cold. Here are some ideas to try before removing the fridge for DIY service.
Suck It Up
The fridge’s exterior vent houses two conduits: air intake and exhaust vent. These can become plugged with debris which can make its way down to the burner chamber: leaves and seeds, dead bugs, spider webs, etc.. Remove the outer vent cover to expose the two conduits, and alternately apply the end of a shop vac to each one to clean out any accumulated junk.
Clear the Air
Igniting the LP burner requires a bit of fresh air in the burn chamber, usually provided by the tiny pump built into the ignitor knob. But over time this pump can begin to fail, making ignition difficult. If you’re having problems, remove the cap from the small condensation drain pipe below the fridge and attach a bicycle pump. Give it several strokes of fresh air, and try igniting the fridge again.
Hope this helps you enjoy your own Westfalia Dometic fridge. And if you have any fridge questions or suggestions, post ’em up below!
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19 responses to “Using the Vanagon Westfalia Refrigerator”
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Fridge flame keeps blowing out after I start driving. Ok when parked. Anyone know the fix?
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Ken, does your fridge burner go out routinely, or only occasionally?
It may benefit from a good cleaning; you can start by removing the external flue cover and alternately applying a shop vac to the fridge intake & exhaust pipes. Replace the flue cover plate and try it again. If this doesn’t help, you may need to actually remove the fridge from the van and do a more thorough cleaning on the bench. Here’s a good write-up on the topic:
https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=459588Hope this helps!
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Mine blows out too when driving. Works when stopped. Had it out a few times already, tried to clean as instructed. No success
Is too much air going in that blows out the flame?
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Ken, if the fridge flame blows out occasionally when driving, this is considered normal; shifting wind gusts, passing trucks, etc. can create turbulence and pressure variables that may blow out the flame.
If it always blows out, it probably indicates something needs to be adjusted; a few things to try:
1. The black rubber gasket which seats the external vent to the bodywork has a slight cutout in its outer perimeter; make sure this cutout faces forward.
2. Make sure the external vent includes the thin metal plate/baffle as part of its assembly, and that it is assembled correctly. This baffle creates a pressure differential between the intake and exhaust, for better flow. Baffle shown in the middle here:
http://www.2040-parts.com/_content/items/images/82/1156082/001.jpg
3. Make sure the interior condensation drain cap is completely closed when the fridge is in use (located beneath the fridge, on the left-hand side).Hope this helps!
Here are some additional resources:
https://shufti.blog/2010/08/11/dometic-fridge-flue-assembly/
https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=577508
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Hi
The condenser fan motor in my electrolux fridge is making a horrible buzzing sound. Does this have a fix or will I need a new condenser fan motor. If so where can i find one?
Thanks
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I’m not familiar with the Electrolux line of fridges, but the fans on the stock Dometic fridges can certainly wear out and make a racket. Replacement fans can also be purchased and installed.
I suggest searching online for a supplier of Electrolux RV fridge parts.
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Hi,
I have my fridge out and want to bench test it. I understand that I will need a regulator when I hook it up to a propane bottle but I’m not sure what regulator to get. Sometimes I see pressure references in inches wc, and sometimes in psi. Am I looking for a low pressure regulator or high pressure? What is the equivilant psi to 11″ wc? There are lots of reasonably priced regulator/hose combos available but I just haven’t seen something that tells me what an RM 182B might want.
Thanks
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Dion,
The Dometic RM 182B fridge runs on virtually the same low-pressure input gas pressure as your backyard BBQ tank, about 10.5 inches water column. As I recall, you can simply disconnect your LP tank & hose from your BBQ/grill and connect it directly to the back of the Dometic fridge gas line, and run it on that.
Just as when lighting the fridge on LP when in the van, it will be easier to light on the bench if you first pre-chill the fridge on 120VAC house current for several hours beforehand.
Here’s a good write-up on bench testing and reworking your Dometic fridge:
http://www.frankcondelli.com/fridge.htmAnd if you perform a Google search for “convert PSI WC”, you’ll find a handy calculator.
Hope this helps!
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Appreciate that. I don’t have an outdoor grill so I’ll need to buy a regulator with hose. I’m assuming that it’s low pressure although I’ve seen regulators described for grills as being sometimes high pressure and sometimes low. Thanks for the link.
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My 84 westy refrig fan came on which freaked me out. I heard that when it gets hot, the fan kicks on even though the refrig is on off. I was told I can take out fuse by door that runs refrig. How do I get fuse out; I see there is a bottom screw. Do I just turn screw and fuse will come out? Is it the fuse closet to refrig or closer to driver door?
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Yes, you can temporarily disable the fridge by removing the white 8-amp fuse located behind the driver’s seat.
The upper contact of each fuse holder is a spring clip, so you can remove the fuse by simply pulling straight outward. To reinstall, just seat the upper end of the fuse in the small hole in the upper spring clip, press upward slightly, then seat the lower end of the fuse into the tiny hole in the bottom contact.
Once you have it apart, it will be apparent how it works.
Does this help?
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Hello, thanks as this helps so now I understand how to take out but someone told me the white fuse actually controls the fan, whereas the red controls other parts of refrig…
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*UPDATED *
There were various wiring changes made over the years, but according to the wiring diagrams in the Bentley manual, at least for the early Vanagon Westfalias:
Fuse S23 8A White: water pump, kitchen LED control panel, refrigerator fan
Fuse S61 16A Red: refrigerator 12-volt heating element-
Thanks for the update so it is correct that the white fuse controls the refrig fan…I think many feel the red16 controls all of the refrig including the fan which is incorrect.
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Is this incorrect:
There should be 2 fuses on the B pillar behind the driver’s seat. The heavy gauge wire should have a 16 amp fuse and is the power supply for the 12 volt heating element of the fridge. The smaller wire has an 8 amp fuse and I am fairly sure it powers the kitchen led panel and the cooling fan behind the fridge.
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That is partly correct; please see my updated info above.
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Does the fridge on my 1985 Dometic drain my battery. Is it the fan that drains it?
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Yes, even when the fridge is off and not being used, the fan behind it can come on when temperatures inside the van become too high. To prevent this, you can either add a cutout switch somewhere in the fan’s power supply line, or simply remove the White 8-amp fuse located in the small fuse box behind the driver’s seat. Either way, just remember to turn this switch back on or replace the fuse before using the fridge again.
Hope this helps!
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“If the fridge is not getting cold, cool yes does the Freon need to be replaced?”
NormHi, Norm!
Sorry to hear about the performance of your Westy fridge.
Unlike your home refrigerator, these Westy fridges do not use freon, and have no compressor. Instead, like most RV fridges, the Westy’s utilizes a blend of ammonia and sodium chromite. It is a closed system, and though possible, they seldom leak. Here’s how to check for leaks:
https://www.doityourself.com/stry/rv-refrigerator-repair-how-to-check-the-coolant-levelThese fridges can be finicky at first, so if you haven’t already done so, try some of these tips and tricks:
https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=155434If you’re still having trouble after that, you may consider removing the fridge from the van and giving it a good DIY cleaning of the evaporative heater system. Though a larger project, I’ve been able to restore several fridges this way:
http://www.frankcondelli.com/fridge.htmHere are some more resources; scroll down to “Refrigerator / Reefer Madness.”
https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?p=6236058#6236058Hope this helps!
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